Few herb mistakes cause more disappointment for apartment gardeners than growing tarragon from a seed packet. After weeks of nurturing seedlings under grow lights, the grower ends up with a tall, gangly plant whose leaves taste like bitter, grassy weeds with zero culinary value. That is because there are two distinct plants sold under the name tarragon: French tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus var. sativa) and Russian tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus var. dracunculoides). For indoor culinary production, only French tarragon is worth your container space.
Quick Answer
Grow only French tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus var. sativa). Russian tarragon can be grown from seed, but it lacks the essential oil estragole, leaving it bitter and flavorless while occupying valuable shelf space. French tarragon is sterile, produces the classic sweet anise flavor, and must be acquired as a live plant or rooted cutting.
The Botanical and Chemical Divide
To understand why only one variety belongs in an indoor kitchen garden, compare their biological and culinary profiles:
FRENCH TARRAGON (var. sativa):
Sterile Flowers (No Viable Seeds) ──> Propagated Only via Cuttings/Divisions
│
▼
High Estragole Content ──> Sweet, Pungent Anise/Licorice Flavor ──> Compact (18–24")
RUSSIAN TARRAGON (var. dracunculoides):
Fertile Flowers (Plentiful Seeds) ──> Sold in Commercial Seed Packets Everywhere
│
▼
Trace/Zero Estragole ──> Coarse, Grassy, Bitter Taste ──> Invasive & Tall (36–60")
| Trait | French Tarragon (A. dracunculus var. sativa) | Russian Tarragon (A. dracunculus var. dracunculoides) |
|---|---|---|
| Propagation Method | Vegetative cuttings or root divisions only | Easily grown from seed |
| Primary Flavor Compound | Estragole (methyl chavicol) & ocimene | Sabinene, pinene (grassy monoterpenes) |
| Culinary Profile | Warm, sweet, refined licorice/anise punch | Bland, bitter, astringent, no sweetness |
| Mature Indoor Height | Compact: 18 to 24 inches | Unruly: 36 to 60 inches |
| Branching Habit | Densely branched, dark green glossy foliage | Coarse, sprawling, pale green foliage |
If you purchased a packet of tarragon seeds, you bought Russian tarragon. French tarragon flowers are sexually sterile; they never set viable seeds. Any commercial seed packet labeled “Tarragon” is Russian tarragon, regardless of culinary imagery on the packaging.
For plants that share this distinct anise chemistry, read Growing Thai Basil Indoors: Maximizing Anise-Flavored Essential Oils.
Sourcing and Propagating True French Tarragon
Because you cannot start true French tarragon from seed, you must bring live genetics into your indoor space:
1. Sourcing
Purchase a certified live plant from a reputable nursery or herb specialist in spring. Perform the “crush-and-sniff” test before potting it: bruise a single leaf between your fingers. If it releases an immediate, rich anise/licorice aroma that numbs the tip of your tongue slightly, it is true French tarragon. If it smells faintly of fresh-cut lawn grass, it is mislabeled Russian tarragon.
2. Taking Cuttings
Once you have an established French tarragon mother plant, propagate backups using stem cuttings:
- Take 4-inch softwood terminal cuttings in late spring or early summer from actively growing stems.
- Strip the lower 2 inches of leaves, apply a rooting hormone to the nodal cut, and insert into moist, sterile perlite.
- Roots form in 14 to 21 days under moderate humidity. For an overview of propagation mediums, review Herb Cloning 101: Using Rooting Hormones vs. Honey for Indoor Cuttings.
The Indoor Challenge: Managing Winter Vernalization
French tarragon’s genetics create one distinct hurdle for indoor growers: it is an obligate cold-dormancy perennial.
If kept under continuous 16-hour grow lights at a steady 72°F (22°C) year-round, French tarragon will eventually exhaust its hormonal reserves. Around month 8 to 12, growth slows, leaves brown from the base upward, and stems collapse. The plant is trying to enter its mandatory winter rest (vernalization).
The Indoor Cold-Reset Protocol
- Induce Rest in Late Autumn: Cut the stems back to 2 inches above the soil line.
- Provide a Chill Period: Move the potted plant into an unheated garage, cold room, or refrigerator where temperatures remain between 34°F and 42°F (1°C to 5°C) for roughly 30 to 45 days. Keep the substrate barely moist—never wet.
- Break Dormancy: Bring the pot back under bright indoor grow lights (PPFD 200–250 µmol/m²/s) at 68°F to 72°F. Fresh, vigorous culinary shoots will emerge within 10 to 14 days.
For seasonal transitions of dormant perennial herbs, consult Winterizing Mediterranean Herbs: Managing the Dormancy Cycle Indoors. To evaluate whether a collapsed indoor plant is dormant or dead, see Identifying Dormancy vs. Death in Perennial Indoor Herbs.
Substrate and Drainage Requirements
French tarragon roots will rot quickly if kept in dense, wet soil:
- Use a gritty, fast-draining potting mix containing at least 30% perlite, pumice, or horticultural sand. For material comparisons, see Perlite vs. Vermiculite vs. Pumice: Choosing the Right Aeration for Your Pots.
- Allow the top 2 inches of soil to dry completely between waterings. Tarragon handles mild underwatering well, but standing water in saucers leads to root rot within days.